Maritime Provinces; Canada, June 15-26, 2004 Map

Thought I didn’t take any pictures on this trip. Then I found a digital roll of them. But where was the narrative? I looked in the usual place, but nothing there. Turns out the narrative is hand-written in a notebook. It was surprisingly easy to find.  8/5/2018


Boston, Massachusetts, June 15, 2004 

USAir had the neatest thing ever when we checked in at the Phoenix airport. Stick your credit card in the machine, and it doesn’t charge you anything, but identifies you! After you push a few more buttons, it prints your boarding card.

The flight to Charlotte was dull, but at the airport I got to take an indoor walk including stairs. Jacque stayed by the gate to guard our tote bag while she read a book.

The MTA whisked us from the airport to downtown Boston. I’d had the foresight to call the hotel and ask where to get off: Scollay Square. But when the train got to Scollay Square the escalator was broken. I had to lug two big suitcases up the stairs from the lower subway level all the way up to the street. Huff, puff.

We’re staying at the Omni Parker Hotel, a 19th century establishment that has had many renovations. It’s quaint but musty. I changed our reservation for the last night of the trip to the Boston Airport Hilton, right at Logan Airport.


Fredricton, New Brunswick, June 16, 2004 

You don’t think of glorified potatoes as a Canadian dish, but they were really good with our turkey dinner at King’s Landing on the St. John River. It’s a village of old buildings, moved when the dam flooded their original sites. Everything is like the 19th century.

Most of the day was spent on our long bus ride from Boston. Linda Mancini, our tour director, told lots of stories about the country we were riding through. This evening Jacque and I are tired, after getting up so early two days in a row.

mountain
Mt Katahdin is at the north end of the Appalachian Trail.

Moncton, New Brunswick, June 17, 2004 

Have you ever tried fiddlehead salad? Fiddlehead is evidently a weed that grows here in the maritime provinces. Tender curly fronds that are mighty tasty with seasoning and salad greens.

We spent a delightful morning at King’s Landing. My favorite attraction is a sawmill powered by a great big water wheel. As the wheel turns, a long reciprocating saw slices the logs into boards lengthwise.

You would like Fredricton. The University of New Brunswick is there, along with some elegant Victorian houses and stately historical buildings. Jacque and I went for a walk, exchanged some money for Canadian money, and bought postage stamps.

Then we rode to Moncton. On the way into town we saw Magnetic Hill, a place where it looks like you are coasting uphill. But you’re realling coasting downhill. The uphill is an optical illusion.

swing
Idllic.
house
Stone house on a hill.
mill
Inside of the sawmill.
mill
The power of falling water.
lupine
It isn’t turning, but lupines have grown up all around.
Jacque
I think we’re going to like this trip.
bridge
The old wooden bridge.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, June 18, 2004 

When I was growing up I read about the giant tides of Fundy. The natural frequency of the Bay of Fundy is the same as that of the tides, so the tides put energy into the bay. The result is the highest tides in the world. 3' tides are normal, but the tides at Fundy get to 46' and higher.

We walked down to the water’s edge amid boulders the size of a 3-story building. The boulders had trees growing on top of them, but their sides were wet all the way down.

I had to coax Jacque out on the rocks to get a good picture with the automatic timer. When I finally got her out there, the picture shows us in the foreground and a tunnel between boulders in the background. The guide told us they have weddings in the tunnel at low tide. Anyone who gets cold feet and doesn’t go through with the wedding will be washed out to sea with the tide.

Peggy’s Cove near Halifax is one of the most photogenic and romantic places on Earth. The shore is lined with huge boulders on which they’ve built a lighthouse. Jacque and I walked out on the boulders to take our picture with the lighthouse in the background, then Jacque went inside the lighthouse while I climbed around. We saw whales in the water.

The town of Peggy’s Cove is a fishing village with quaint houses painted in bright colors and fishing boats that go out to sea. Jacque went in the gift shop while I walked around.

We’re spending two nights here in Halifax at an elegant hotel. At the moment I’m washing our clothes in the hotel laundromat while Jacque takes a bath.

A retired railroad man at our dinner table did something extraordinary—he led us all in prayer. For many years he had worked as a brakeman on the Canadian Pacific Railroad.

tide
Low tide at the Bay of Fundy.
rocks
Jacque joined me at the water’s edge.
tide
At low tide you can walk along the shore.
water
The tide is coming in.
village
Peggy’s Cove.
lighthouse
They’ve built a lighthouse on the rocks.
sea
The sea has many moods.
houses
Colorful houses of Peggy’s Cove.
boats
How was the catch today?
guard
Halifax is in a strategic location.
ships
On the waterfront, Halifax.
tug
Scuffy the Tugboat.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, June 19, 2004 

Our day began with a tour of Halifax, narrated by a local guide. The city is well situated in a strategic location with an excellent natural harbor. The city tour ended by the waterfront. Jacque and I walked up and down visiting shops. We ate lunch at a fish and chips place near the water.

Then we took a harbor tour on a three-masted schooner. The ship is gaff-rigged. I got to help pull a sail up as we got underway. The harbor was quite cool and breezy.

There was little time for shopping when we got off the boat. So Jacque rode the bus back to our hotel while I ran and bought us a set of placemats. Then I walked back through a district of street cafes and street people. We both took a nap.

We went to the dinner theater at Halifax Feast. The food was OK, but the show had many off-color jokes, including one about the President of the United States. Not the way to win friends and influence people. I thought of walking out, but didn’t.

Ted
Who says I have horns?
hills
Distant hills are cloud-topped.
shore
The meeting of land and sea.
Jacque
Harbor tour.

Baddeck, Nova Scotia, June 20, 2004 

We had a long drive from Halifax along the coast and through picturesque woodlands. When we got here we visited the Alexander Graham Bell Museum—one of the best.

After dinner Jacque and I walked down to the lake. It was pleasantly cool, and the air and water are pure.

We’re staying at the Silver Dart Lodge, an older motel built on a hill overlooking the lake. It’s named after an airplane built by Alexander Graham Bell, the first to fly in Canada.

sea
A rocky beach.

Baddeck, Nova Scotia, June 21, 2004 

We rode the Cabot Trail Highway through Cape Breton Highlands National Park. It’s remarkably scenic with forest-covered mountains and a rocky coastline. We made a few picture stops, though I would have liked more. Lunch was at the Keltic Bridge, a luxurious resort on a peninsula in Ingonish Bay. They have the world’s best chowder, or a strong contender for that honor.

When we got back to Baddeck, Jacque and I went sailing on the Amoeba, a two-masted schooner. The captain has a great sense of humor. Also he told us that the ship was built by his father.

Jacque and I went for two walks, a nature trail before breakfast and a walk back to the Silver Dart Lodge after we got off the ship.

boat
Blow the winds westerly.
lighthouse
A lighthouse you can see in the day.
boats
Ready to set sail.
church
St. Peter - St. John Anglican Church, Baddeck.
boat
Do we have enough, lads?
boat
Ahoy there!
flowers
Flowers grace our passage.

Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, June 22, 2004 

We’re staying at the Rodd Hotel, built by the Canadian Pacific Railroad in bygone years. It’s a handsome building they’ve really tried to bring up to date. A laundromat and hot water in our room would help considerably. The folks at the front desk said they would fix the hot water. In the meantime I washed our underwear by hand.

We spent most of the day riding the bus. A welcome respite was our ferry boat ride to Prince Edward Island. The island is lovely, like a storybook. Linda took us all on a walking tour of Charlottetown from here to the waterfront.

pier
Getting off the ferry boat.
wood
A wooden platform looks out over the beach.
green
So much greenery around here!
boat
All aboard the Dougie D.
lobsters
I caught them, so you can eat them.
shore
Reflections in the water at low tide.

Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, June 23, 2004 

Jacque and I went for a walk in light rain at the Ann of Green Gables place. It’s a favorite with tourists, since the story is set here on Prince Edward Island. Our tour of the island also included a beach with curiously warm water, and storybook countryside. We got back in mid-afternoon.

After resting for a while we walked the boardwalk. It goes right along the waterfront, with shops and restaurants on the shore; fishing boats, yachts, and jellyfish in the water. We ate at a restaurant popular with the young people, which included an Internet cafe.

Heck, if they can sell all that tourist merchandise for Ann of Green Gables, why not for Computer Science and the Pursuit of Happiness? I can see it now ...
(1) Sophia’s words of wisdom, on plaques.
(2) Polly Esther’s premium hosiery.
(3) Ava Maria’s indelible hair dye.
(4) Vesta’s potato chip sandwiches.
(5) Michelle’s French bread and doughnuts.
I can hardly wait!
note: Polly Esther, Ava Maria, and Michelle have since been re-named Susanne, Rosemary, and Desirée.

ferry
I’ll ferry you across.
buoy
Buoys are for the birds.
church
A fine country church.
geese
Geese like it here.

Wolfville, Nova Scotia, June 24, 2004 

It was cool and invigorating before breakfast. We went for a walk and saw some stately Victorian houses and early morning street people.

The ferry took us from Prince Edward Island to Nova Scotia. We had lunch in Halifax by the waterfront, while our tour guide dropped off some people at the hotel. One couple had to leave the tour in Halifax because of a family emergency.

After lunch we drove here and toured the Arcadian exile monument. They have a fine video presentation in French and English. Outside there is a building that looks like a church, but isn’t. We walked around until mosquitoes chased us back indoors. The hotel overlooks the river, but our room is on the opposite side.

inside
Not bad on the inside.
tin
Well, it looks like a church.
paint
When was the last time they painted?
walk
What a fine day for a walk!
bay
June flowers are in bloom.
boats
Let’s go fishing.

Bar Harbor, Maine, June 25, 2004 

The Cat is a fast catamaran ferry that sails between Yarmouth, Nova Scotia, and Bar Harbor, Maine. The trip takes almost 3 hours vs. several days of driving. Not much scenery—just water—but it’s a nice ride.

It was foggy and raining when we got here. We went for a ride in Arcadia National Park. It was surreal, with the mountains cloud-topped and fog at several elevations. At one of the ponds we saw a beaver, a deer, and a muskrat. Then they took us to Thunder Hole, a place where the ocean waves go crashing into a cave in the rocks.

Jacque and I had lobster for dinner. It was great fun cracking the shell apart. They gave us plastic bibs to wear. Then we walked back to the bus in the rain.

ferry
Yes, we can go on a day like this.
fog
A gray old day for sailing.

Boston, Massachusetts, June 26, 2004 

We had a rainy bus ride from Bar Harbor to Boston. Half of the passengers got off at Logan International Airport, where Jacque and I caught the shuttle to the Airport Hilton.

For dinner we rode the MTA downtown to Scollay Square, where we ate at an Irish restaurant. I had bouillabaisse. They finally got the escalator fixed at the subway station, now that I didn’t have any suitcases to carry.


Mesa, Arizona, June 27, 2004 

Our flights from Boston and Pittsburgh were cloudy most of the way. On the way into Phoenix, Jacque and I sat beside a lady from New York who had been married 28 years and still looked young. She talked graciously.

Both girls came to the airport to meet us. Beatrix got a raise and a promotion while we were gone. Clara had stories to tell about her friends and working companions.


  Arizona Hike Pictures updated August 12, 2018